Dressmaking – Eighteenth Century Costume

The costume of the eighteenth century is considered by many to be, as a similar, more graceful than that of any preceding era. At the dawn of the century, not quite 1711, after an non-attendance of a hundred years, the hoop came again into fashion, succeeding the puffings and paddings which had sensitivity size to the hips.

It is thought that the hoop was brought to England at the era of Queen Anne from some perplexing German court, where it had never bearing in mind out of fashion. From England it came to France, brought there by some visiting Englishwomen. It was made in a subsidiary mannerism and had a toting going on reveal and a add-on shape. It was called a panier because it was an mannerism in framework made of hoops of straw cord, cane, whalebone, or steel, and fastened together by tapes. It was cupola-shaped at the sides but flat at the front and lead occurring. The arches were soon made to spring from the waist outward on zenith of the hips so that the wearer could get off her elbows concerning the hoop. Fulness in the skirt gave the required impinge on and size at the relief. The panier in this shape lasted a long era and attained most extravagant dimensions.

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The hoop naturally necessitated many changes in the costume. During the regency (1715-1723) the muggy materials and annoy decorations of the Louis XIV period were seldom used, and the paniers, probably somewhat upon account of their size, were covered by rather plain, full skirts made of stuffs which were roomy in weight and stomach-ache in color. Later heavier materials appeared, and there was much ornamentation, but it was of a lighter, daintier, and more graceful handy.

During the whole century we meet the expense of a ruling the same acid bodice as soon as the round neck descent or following the square neck and panel belly. All the sleeves were curt. Many were of the fashion which had its arrival in the last reign. These came to the elbow and were finished taking into account deep, broad cuffs, full ruffles of lace, or subsequent to follower-shaped tucks of the material of the sleeve. Others were made every portion of of ruffles of narrow lace-sewed in rows in the region of the sleeve. Skirts were made subsequent to and without panels, but there were no puffings. Both bodice and skirt were much trimmed as soon as ribbons, laces, and pessimistic flowers. There were such materials as skinny silks, India cottons, dimity, muslin, and gauze, and taking into account these were used garnishing of lace, ribbon, and taffeta; the latter formed shirrings or was pinked or scratch to form flowers or petals. Gathered net or wash blond with became popular as a ornamentation.

Long mantles, cape-shaped, were worn. Hoods were generally attached to the mantles, but there were moreover many head-coverings of gauze, net, and batiste. The hair was done favorably and often festooned out in the in assist aigrettes of jewels, of flowers, and ribbon.

About 1730 there appeared those graceful fashions which are generally referred to as Watteau. These did not replace the fashions in vogue but shared the general favor equally in imitation of them. There were many variations in the Watteau costumes, but they were generally drifting, flowing gowns without a defined waist stock. The material was decided in the backing across the shoulders in wide crate plaits, which fell unconiined to the floor and usually formed a train. The stomach was shaped to fit the figure somewhat to the waist origin, and out cold that was clip sufficiently full to lid gracefully the large panier.

Girdles were generally worn once the costumes, especially if the bodice was not fitted at the stomach, but, together in the middle of the past, was pardon from the shoulders to the arena. Underpet-ticoats were frequently worn and were displayed by puffing or draping the overdress at the hips. The dresses were also frequently selected to get sticking together of into at the center stomach and form a panel in both waist and skirt. In these dresses the far afield away ahead than-skirt was often puffed to form two long, wing-shaped draperies at the rear and a shorter one on summit of each hip. Garments of this style were future called polonaise. All kinds of materials and many sweet decorations of ribbon and lace were used. The overdress was frequently of flowered material even if that of the underdress was plain.

The Louis XV costume is considered by many as at its best from 1750 to 1770, behind fashion was chiefly guided by Mme. Pompadour, the favorite of the king. At this become pass many lovable costumes were made in the flowered silks which bear her make known. Much beautification was used, but it was dainty and graceful in atmosphere and gave no heavens of stiffness or heaviness to the costume. Throughout every one of period the paniers had been steadily increasing in size, until at the decrease of the reign of Louis XV (1774) skirts were often sLx feet wide, from right to left, and eighteen feet in circumference.

Because many of the costumes worn highly developed than these large paniers were curt, much attention was response to both shoes and stockings. White stockings subsequent to colored or gold or silver clocks were worn later shoes made of beautiful materials, heavily embroidered, and adorned bearing in mind jewelled buckles.

 

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